Grizzly Bear 399
Birthdays are typically joyous occasions, but this year was an exception. On October 23rd, we learned that a beloved ambassador had passed away just before midnight. Grizzly bear 399 was tragically hit and killed by a vehicle. Consequently, my birthday the following day was overshadowed by mourning. Many shared in the loss of this great bear. Given her advanced age, I had anticipated her departure from this world, perhaps not reappearing one spring, her presence fading into memory. However, this abrupt end was not the farewell befitting the world's most renowned bear.
Grizzly 399, a 28-year-old grizzly sow, gave birth to eighteen cubs, who in turn have produced eighteen offspring, her grand cubs. It is estimated that half of these offspring have not survived. She has significantly impacted the landscape of the Tetons and the Greater Yellowstone ecosystem. Her fame surged in 2020 when she emerged from her den with four cubs of the year (COYs). While she has had sets of triplets and twins, quadruplets were particularly noteworthy. She established a pattern of rearing her cubs near roadsides within the Tetons, likely to protect them from male grizzlies in the backcountry, which often kill cubs that are not their own. This behavior has been adopted by her offspring, demonstrating how this apex predator can coexist with humans.
For thousands of individuals, she was the first grizzly bear they ever encountered in person. Her rise to stardom has garnered global attention. She generates excitement, drawing millions annually to the park in hopes of a grizzly 399 sighting. Over the past four years, I've been delighted in witnessing people's first encounters with her, sharing in the joy and excitement of those from around the world.
I consider myself lucky to have observed and photographed her at least a dozen times over the past four years. Each encounter was as breathtaking as the next, with a few standing out. My initial encounter in 2020 was particularly memorable; she emerged with her cubs during a week-long trip I took with our youngest son, Trevor, to Yellowstone and then the Tetons amidst the COVID pandemic. On our fourth day, luck seemed elusive until we drove down signal mountain road. Alone with just one other car, I glanced right and halted my vehicle. There she was, leading her cubs through the forest, just twenty yards from the road. Having recently acquired my 600mm f/4 Nikon lens, I was eager for this first capture. In my haste, I bumped the lens hood against the door frame. She, grizzly 399, stopped and gazed at me. I raised my camera, framed her in the viewfinder, and took the shot. Fortuitously, my settings were set for a fast shutter speed, ensuring the images were sharp despite my trembling hands. We continued our journey, managing to photograph her several more times as they approached the main road.
That first image I captured holds immense significance for me. It's special for numerous reasons and is also among my most celebrated images. That moment sparked my fascination with this particular bear.
My first image I captured of Grizzly 399
My second cherished encounter with Grizzly 399 occurred in the fall, after she had sent her quadruplets off to fend for themselves. She wasn't alone, however; she was accompanied by a suitor, another well-known bear in the Tetons, Grizzly 679, also known as Bruno. We spent a remarkable afternoon observing 399 as she foraged in a meadow, with Bruno attentively following her. Witnessing the grizzlies' courtship behavior up close was amazing. 399 seemed intent on distancing herself from him, frequently attempting to cross the road to another meadow. Bruno would either sit and observe or lie down to rest while she grazed. Whenever she moved, he would rise and strategically place himself between her and her intended destination. At one point, 399 sprinted thirty yards in one direction, then abruptly changed course in an effort to elude him. Bruno matched her pace, demonstrating his agility with his huge frame. Eventually, 399 retreated into the forest with Bruno in pursuit. They vanished from view for some time, and we proceeded to search for other wildlife in the park.
Witnessing these behaviors firsthand was extraordinary, especially seeing 399 again and Bruno for the first time. The size disparity between them was astounding. On her own or with her cubs, 399 appears to be a sizable bear, standing 7 feet tall and weighing around 400 pounds. However, next to Bruno, reputed to be the largest male in the Tetons, she seemed small. He towered over her, making her look diminutive, which was a mind-blowing sight and made the experience all the more remarkable. For context, male grizzlies can be a few feet taller and weigh around 700 pounds in the Yellowstone ecosystem.
Grizzly 679 “Bruno” courting Grizzly 399
The last encounter I'll recount with 399 occurred in the spring of 2023. At 27 years old, there were concerns that 399 might not emerge from her den, as grizzlies typically live up to 25 years in the wild, with some reaching 30 years. Being at the higher end of the lifespan for wild grizzlies and having spent over two years caring for four cubs into sub-adulthood, her reappearance was astonishing. She defied expectations by leaving the den with a single cub. We were in the park a few days after her first sighting and managed to photograph them twice in one day at different locations. It was thrilling to see her defy the odds again, presenting the world with her 18th cub.
What she has taught us
Grizzly 399 has contributed immensely throughout her life, particularly in her later years. She demonstrated that apex predators like grizzly bears can coexist with human communities. As an exceptional educator, she provided an unprecedented view into the lives of bears. For many, she was likely the first bear they ever saw in the wild, teaching not only humans but also future generations of grizzlies how to thrive in the Tetons and surrounding areas.
399 digging for roots with her four cubs teaching them how to find food sources
Her death
Regarding her death, reports indicate that 399 and her cub, nicknamed Spirit, were south of Jackson, likely in search of food. An elk carcass, presumably struck by a vehicle, was reported to have been dragged off the road by a grizzly, and two bears were seen and reported feeding on it. At this point it wasn’t known to be 399. The following day, around 11:30 PM, a vehicle traveling at or below the speed limit encountered two grizzlies on the road. The driver swerved to avoid one bear, Spirit, but tragically collided with 399 resulting in her death. This stretch of highway, which I have frequented often due to a cabin we often stay at near Alpine, is a direct route to Jackson and the park. It is poorly lit, runs alongside the Snake River to the east, and is bordered by steep terrain with meadows and forests to the west—a dangerous area for wildlife to be near the road.
The critical question remains: if the highway patrol was aware of the elk carcass and bear activity near the highway, why was no action taken within those thirty hours? Fortunately, the vehicle's occupants were unharmed, but the situation could have ended tragically for them as well. It raises concerns about why this was not prioritized and why the responsibility was not transferred to another agency if the highway patrol was unable to address the situation.
I don't have all the answers, but wildlife crossing bridges and tunnels are planned in various areas. While helpful, they're slow and costly solutions. We need quicker responses, like agency presence, flashing signs, and reader boards. This situation could and should have been avoided.
My final image of 399 with her cub “Spirit”
What can we do?
Driving to GTNP one morning it dawned on me that she has taught her cubs patients, coexistence, how to navigate crossing roads and highways, literally looking in both directions to make sure it’s safe. It is the same as what we do with our own kids, teaching them from a young age. It was an hour before sunrise and I was going through Swan Valley, Idaho. Chains were required over Teton Pass so I chose to go the long way through Alpine and then North towards Jackson and the park. Ironically, this route would take me past mile marker 126.9, the location where 399 was hit and killed. The speed limit was fifty-five and then dropped down to thirty-five as we approached the town. I had some impatient drivers on the same route, and one flew past me going at least 80 mph. As I pulled my head back forward after watching this person blow away the speed limit, I noticed we were passing a yellow animal crossing caution sign and then saw them hit their brakes. I guess they figured going 80 in a 35 may not be a good idea after all. When we see those yellow animal caution signs, we need to take heed and slow down. The signs are there for a reason to keep the motoring public and the wildlife equally safe.
This brought back memories of my old profession in the logistics world. I worked on the transportation side of the field for almost two decades and had professional truck drivers under my responsibility for many of those years. One thing we stressed over and over is to reduce speed for conditions. That means if it is wet, rainy, foggy or whatever the case may be, you need to reduce your speed, even if you are going the speed limit, to an appropriate speed for the conditions observed. It is the responsibility of the driver to do so. This case should fall into that category as well. If there is potentially a presence of wildlife along the roadside and say a deer or elk could possibly dart across the road at any given moment, speeds in those known areas should be adjusted down to a safer speed just like a driver would when they encounter wet, rainy or slick conditions. I know the world we live in everyone wants satisfaction immediately, and it’s the same with travel. I get it and have been guilty in the past myself. Realistically if you drop your speed 10-15 mph for a few miles you will not lose much time on your journey, we are talking a matter of minutes. It would be difficult to implement as it would be up to every driver on the road. Maybe adding fines for speeding in wildlife areas similar to construction zones would help? Whatever the case is, it ultimately needs to be a societal shift to make it successful.
Remembrance
I will end this blog with what I did later that same morning. It was the first time I had been back to the park since her death. I was not sure how I was going to feel about that, how the vibe would be while driving around. I, like many others, look for her specifically every time we are there, and we will not have that opportunity any longer. I first stopped by the town square in Jackson and visited the memorial that people from all over have created. It was cool to see all the stuff that was left in her honor and read the notes and looked at the pictures. From there I drove directly to the Pilgram Creek area, her main turf and where I have spent a lot of time with her over the past few years. I pulled over at Pilgrim Creek Road and parked in front of the gate as it was closed. There was a nice bouquet of flowers affixed to the road sign. I turned my truck off and sat silently for 399 seconds while I just scanned my own thoughts and memories of her from the past. It was therapeutic for me, and I really felt a bit better about the situation after the alarm sounded.
Her legacy will live on in everyone’s memories who have seen her in person, through images captured by thousands of photographers and through her lineage such as Grizzly 610, who thankfully is still alive after a couple of her own scares the past few years. She is another exceptional grizzly mother who now has the torch in teaching new generations of grizzlies in the Tetons.
I have prints and a 399 T-shirt available in my wildlife print store.